Guillame Henry's tenure at Carven ends with this collection. Announcement of his departure from Carven was made months ago, the brand labeled his time here as a "collaboration". For FW15, this collaborative collection yielded a soft take on the 80s, this wasn't a maximists' dream. Instead, it looked more at the somber days of the 80s: economic downturns, debilitating diseases and war, not too dissimilar to today's world, actually.



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RUNWAY: Carven FW15

Since taking over the reigns at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing has honed the collection to an opulent level that harnessed his predecessor's predelication for grungy and sexy and made it sleeker and more grown up. Take Balmain's FW15 collection, lush in fabrication from velvet and leather and smart in its loungey tailoring, while the embellishment like metallic sneakers and crystalized jackets gave the collection a very Louis XIV feel.



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RUNWAY: Balmain FW15

Now that Alexander Wang has had his time figuring out who the Balenciaga Man is, the Fall/Winter 2015 collection revealed itself to be just as strong as it was without the American-born designer. The striking silhouettes and futuristic designs are fresh and fetching. What Wang brings to the table is a more focused vision and adding a bit of street-friendly details (think graphics) though the strongest points of the collection were rooted in the beautiful coats and sublime tailoring skills that's been Balenciaga's strongest asset for years, even before Mr. Wang took over.



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RUNWAY: Balenciaga FW15

Acne's anglophilic Fall/Winter 2015 collection harkened London's tailoring heritage and melded with the designer's Scandanavian cheeky roots. English fabrics and punk influences were mixed with quirky graphics ad interesting detailing that resulted in an off-kilter, fun and youthful collection.



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RUNWAY: Acne Studios FW15

Three day ago, the story at A.P.C.'s Fall/Winter 2015 collection was their latest collaboration with Timberland. Previously, the label has teamed up with Kanye West to create two capsule collections. Timberland x A.P.C. would be a reality.

Fast forward to the present and it's been scrapped after the label's founder said racially insensitive, and frankly disgusting, comments regarding the collection, calling Timberland a "ghetto signifier", among other heinous things. This is yet another example of the high street happily accepting the money of minorities without any respect or regard of those whose culture they're appropriating, using said minority's hard earned money to line their own pockets. Shame on A.P.C. and, especially on Mr. Touitou. The rest of this otherwise nice collection is tainted by its founder's ugly words and highlights that race (and religion, at least when it comes to another notorious former couturier at Dior) is still very much a hurdle the fashion industry must overcome.



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RUNWAY: A.P.C. FW15

Americana has never looked so off-kilter or as chic as it does in Scott Sternberg's FW15 collection for Band of Outsiders, a name that's in strict conflict of its status as the most desired label for the hippest of men and women. For FW15, there were plays on American hardware logos, including a cheeky take on tire manufacturer Goodyear's name as Bad Year. In all, the collect continues its ascent as one of the go-to label for ironic, well made clothes.



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RUNWAY: Band of Outsiders FW15

After a much-lauded FW15 collection for Alexander McQueen, the McQueen team showcased a much younger and sportier collection the label's diffusion line, McQ. Graphic prints, a bit of fur and a sublime Perfecto rounded out this collection, which was heavily rooted in denim.



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RUNWAY: McQ FW15

Graphic monochromatic prints stood out at Chalayan's sporty-cum-tailored FW15 collection: take the camo-like blousons and austere jackets with hidden panel closures or tiered pant-shorts combo.



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RUNWAY: Chalayan FW15

D.GNAK proffered a collection rooted in militarism of East Asia for FW15, complete with voluminous shorts, austere coats, elongated proportions and a plethora of leather, hinting at the idea of skin for protection.



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RUNWAY: D.GNAK FW15