SANKUANZ's Fall/Winter 2018 collection was hard-edged with a strong fight-or-flight feel, though to felt more fight rather than flight. Taking inspiration from fighters throughout time, SANKUANZ offered new and unusual uses for certain fabrics like neoprene's water resistance was utilized to create rugged outerwear while ninja-inspired looks combined with the label's new take on camouflage was an interesting posit. Then there was the phrase "Kill The Wall" seen on handles of backpacks and on belts, a statement of resistance from the Chinese label.


There is a level of casual elegance at Officine Generale's collections one comes to expect. The label is known for their beautiful laid back tailoring and, once again, delivered. There was a richness in the fabrics used that evoked a grandiose vibe without being loud, take a gray suit in heavy wool, speckled with white yarn, that looked so cool and effortless while military influences were elevated with a "cool, calm and collected" attitude, like a dropped crotch for ease. Not that Veronique Nichanian has any intention of leaving Hermes but if she were, Pierre Maheo, the designer at Officine Generale, has consistently been making a good case for why he should succeed her.

RUNWAY: Officine Generale FW18

With the word mountaineering in its name, one expects a rugged, mountaineering-ready collection and the label, White Mountaineering, offered all that and a bit more. There were ropes swung across the body, D-ring patterns on shirts while actual D-rings hung like badges or trophies, showing off how many mountains these men in layered, water-resistant clothing have climbed. Completing the look were rugged boots, also featuring waterproofing, rending these adventurous men ready for any weather.

RUNWAY: White Mountaineering FW18

Bucket hats blocked the eyes of the models at Damir Doma creating a mysterious air around the collection of slouchy garments. There were dropped shoulders, elongated sleeves (hands, who needs them?), and an extra long coat with a correspondingly long collar that looked chic and fresh.

RUNWAY: Damir Doma FW18

There are actually two different lines shown during Comme des Garcons Shirt's runway. There is, of course, the Shirt line but also a sub-label: Boy. The latter came first, as if by age order, and it was undoubtedly younger with fun bunny and mouse ear hoodies and caps that was also seen on the shirt shoulders themselves. As for the Shirt label, there was a bit of subversion in the straps and belted details on the shirts or actual straps on the leather outfits in the final looks. There was also a series of special edition shirts featuring the artwork by famed New York City artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.

RUNWAY: Comme des Garcons Shirt FW18

There's been a changing of the guards, per se, at Wooyoungmi. Is there a noticeable difference? In a way, yes. This FW18 collection, designed entirely by the founding designer's daughter, Katie Chung, was notably younger and felt more open to risk, with giant oversized outerwear, exaggerated collars and quite a bit of punk. There are still strong hints of the South Korean label's signature patterns and tailoring but a heavier emphasis was on the street-inspired designs. Men don't like big changes and the ones here are not life-changing; they are gradual enough and in line with the rest of the industry that the designer and perspective change will have little to no effect on the bottom line.

RUNWAY: Wooyoungmi FW18

Though Lucas Ossendrijver has been as Lanvin for quite some time, the maison itself has undergone through some major changes and it has resulted in diminished influence within the industry and has exposed wide cracks within the house itself. Nevertheless, fashion waits for no one and it's onward and upward for the Lanvin man. For FW18, Ossendrijver offered a contrast to his signature tailoring with more dramatic and sometimes rakish layers, from asymmetrical knits to oversized anoraks. Footwear shown was mostly trainers, which is line with the fashion industry as a whole but also because men are consuming more and more footwear and often looking for that one It piece, akin to women's bags.

RUNWAY: Lanvin FW18

A dramatic, medieval setting quickly set the mood at Hermès' Fall/Winter 2018 collection. A dozen or so braziers lit up the runway and sent embers abound and gave the clothes a richness and depth that only real fire could bring. The clothes were not as dramatic as the setting but it was far more capital-F Fashion than Hermès tends to be. There were plenty of quiet luxury, like the super-soft leathers and cashmeres, the latter offering an arty mountainscape pattern while more ostentatious fashions like a hooded crocodile trench and furry overcoat were also present. The usually-reserved label, still family owned, brought a new willingness to try new things this season and while not everything worked (like the ultra-thin down jackets), most achieved the goal: offer unparalleled luxury at nosebleed-inducing prices.

RUNWAY: Hermès FW18

All that glitters is gold...and silver at Balmain's fabulously ostentatious Fall/Winter 2018 collection. From the slinky layers seen in the first look, complete with patent leather pants, the rest of the collection flew by a whirl of extravagance, with intricately beaded tops, plasticized bottoms, and even a full fur coat or two, just in case there wasn't enough bank-account-draining luxury in the collection.

RUNWAY: Balmain FW18